My Own Private Safari

A recent conversation with a friend inspired me to write an article about affordable safaris.  She was aghast that I had visited five national parks in Tanzania on my safari, under the impression that safaris were reserved for the affluent.  Hardly, I explained to her.  I researched many tour companies online, including Facebook reviews, and found that the in-country companies were the most affordable.  I was also searching for a combination package, where one company would arrange my Kilimanjaro climb and safari, for one price.  Zara Tours turned out to have the best reviews and was the most affordable.  As expected, it was a no-frills adventure, but highly personalized and the guides were exemplary.

Read the story here.  If you are considering a safari, contact me with questions!

Lake Manyara National Park, the first stop.

My cheap camera captured the expanse of Serengeti National Park rather well.

Observing the frolicking zebras in Ngorongoro Crater.

Indian Intestinal Adventures

Any travel guide, blog, or seasoned traveller will tell you that it's virtually impossible to avoid intestinal troubles while travelling in India.  Yes, there are ways to stay safe, but those tactics are also boring when you are presented with enticing food and drink as you stroll down the streets.  I didn't eat anything unusual or anything my fellow yoga students didn't try.  I just suffered a major stroke of bad luck, incredibly bad luck.

A special heartfelt thank you goes to the staff and teachers at Rishikesh Yog Peeth, who deal with these issues regularly.  My fellow yogis comforted and supported me when the trauma seemed insurmountable.  Obviously, I surmounted it, as I am writing this story and now hold a Registered Yoga Teacher (RYT 200) certification.

Click here to read my story on Pink Pangea, but wait until you are finished eating.

Post-hospital touring at the abandoned ashram where The Beatles stayed during their time in Rishikesh.

Solo Traveller Tips

I compiled some general tips in an appropriately titled Pink Pangea article, Beginners' Tips for Solo Female Travel.  In speaking with numerous women, both active and armchair travellers, it's always enlightening to learn from each other.  Sometimes what I consider basic knowledge is a surprise to another traveller, while my own hard learned lessons come easily for others.  For these reasons, I strive to remain active within social media travel communities, whether I'm on the road or earning money at home. 

Click here to read the article.  Enjoy!

Hanging out with John, Paul, Ringo, and George at the abandoned "Beatles Ashram" in Rishikesh, India.

A Culture Shock to End All Others

"How am I supposed to survive for six weeks without air conditioning?"

"I can't leave my door open because the monkeys will take my stuff!"

"Um, that motorbike just splattered cow shit all over our legs!"

"Will diarrhea become my new normal?"

Welcome to India. 

I entered my room at Rishikesh Yog Peeth ashram, engaged the lock, and had a good cry as I collapsed on my bed. I messaged Melanie, my yoga teacher at Open Door back home, who assured me that she felt the same way upon her arrival and that it would soon pass. It didn't help that the temperature was hovering around 105-110F when I arrived. India was suffering a deadly heatwave, and I wondered if, all factors compounded, I would meet my demise during my visit.

1. No air conditioning

Central AC is largely an American phenomenon. I'm reminded of this luxury when I travel. I didn't know how I would manage six weeks without it. Three weeks in, my ceiling fan is doing a fine job, and it's relatively bearable. When the power cuts, the generator gives it a nice surge.

2. Frequent power outages

Indians are some of the most intelligent people I've ever met. I don't understand why this problem can't be solved. I suppose it's out of their control. The power cuts every day, at least five and sometimes ten times a day. Amit, one of the intensely dedicated staff members, drops what he's doing and cheerfully kicks on the generator. I started to keep a tally when I first arrived, but it became more time consuming than my studies. I've accepted it as a fact of Indian life.

3. Temperamental hot water

During the heatwave, I didn't mind a cold shower. Even at 5:30 am, before asana class, it felt refreshing after writhing around in sweat all night. Some students showered multiple times a day, merely to cool off. I got into the habit of showering twice a day. It's especially repulsive to sink into your bed at night after wading through cow dung, so the nightly shower became a refreshing necessity.

4. Cow dung in the streets

Cows are sacred in India. In Rishikesh, meat is illegal. That said, they roam the streets, eating the food scraps and mingling with the residents. I'm a vegetarian, actually almost vegan, but I cannot imagine eating one of these beautiful creatures after coming into such close contact with them. The bulls can be aggressive at times, but that's rare and he's usually pacified quickly.

5. Monkeys!

Only a few days into my stay, I was reading with my door open. I thought the resident cat had entered my room, but it was a monkey that looked to be about 20 lbs! She was looking for food and she found it: my precious Trader Joe's granola bars that I was saving for a special occasion, mostly an occasion which didn't require a spoon to eat them. I'll tell the detailed story in a future blog post.

The school was forthcoming with these five items, listing on their website to prepare to face them. They also insinuated if you didn't think you could embrace this lifestyle, the course isn't for you. I tried to prepare myself, but experience is the best teacher.

Now in my third week of the program, I can't imagine passing up on the opportunity to earn my yoga certification in India at Rishikesh Yog Peeth. The teachers are world class, the staff is delightful and helpful, and the food is delicious and plentiful. As with any travel destination, flexibility and a sense of humor are essential. Spoiled entitlement doesn't fly here. Once I pulled myself together and realized how fortunate I am for this opportunity, which didn't take long, I began to savor and internalize every moment of this journey.

The Solo Travel Blues

It's hard to imagine not enjoying every moment of a trip abroad, especially when you recall how hard you worked to save your money and how carefully you planned your flight and accommodations. Even when one appreciates all aspects of his or her trip, a bout of homesickness or slight regret can manifest itself. I wrote this story sincerely, after suffering a depressive state on the road. Luckily, I was strong enough to pull myself through it and was able to enjoy the rest of my trip.

Click here to read my Feature Writer story on Pink Pangea.

First Impressions Don't Matter, India

No one can create an image of a faraway place for you, as a substitute for the visceral experience. I struggled with the decision of attending yoga school in the U.S. versus India or another foreign country. Since I'm an avid traveller, but also didn't have thousands of dollars to spend, I chose India. I wanted to experience my training in an authentic environment, culturally immersed.

The decision was made to attend Rishikesh Yog Peeth for its location, residence and meals onsite, and expedient responses to my numerous enquires via email. The school offers to coordinate a taxi from the Delhi airport up to Rishikesh for a discounted price and piece of mind that the driver is reputable.

Sophie and I had emailed before leaving the U.S., as we were paired up by the school to share a taxi. I waited for her at the designated spot outside the airport, and we soon found our driver, Mr Tayal. He held a sign with our names written on it, hopefully evidencing the VIP treatment.

After loading the white sedan with our luggage, we set off on our 6-8 hour tour of the Indian countryside. We soon realized that it might take 6-8 hours to exit the Delhi city limits. Honking is a form of the driving culture here, as a warning to your fellow drivers, not as an insult or reproach as in the U.S.

Mr Tayal was courteous and asked whether we needed food or a restroom break. We were both apprehensive about eating at a roadside restaurant, for fear of getting sick. The school had advised us to only eat food from the dining hall for the first few days, to allow time for our systems to acclimate. I had the feeling Mr Tayal was simply trying to provide a cultural experience. He stopped for "sugar juice" and asked if we wanted a glass. I glanced to the left and saw a cane press, reminiscent of the rum distillery I visited in the Amazon. Sophie and I observed as the vendor got up from his plastic patio chair, grabbed a few stalks of sugar cane, and squeezed them through the press. The liquid was plentifully extracted straight into a glass and handed to Mr Tayal. The men chatted as Mr Tayal enjoyed his refreshment. I envied a taste, but watching the process was satisfying enough.

We continued on our way, naturally clogged up in another traffic jam. This time, Mr Tayal impressed both us and our fellow travellers by off roading on the shoulder to bypass the cars ahead of us, honking the entire time. No one seemed to mind. Mr Tayal again provided the VIP treatment as he bounded over the median and passed in the oncoming traffic lanes. Why not? Instead of merging back into the traffic, which was impossible, we stopped in our tracks. Thankfully, the oncoming traffic did the same. We were now stuck in traffic on the opposite side of the median, creating even more of a blockade. Mr Tayal had obviously performed these maneuvers before and wasn't content to wait his turn to merge. He had VIPs with him, after all! He worked his way to the shoulder of the oncoming traffic, now making good time bypassing everyone. An opportunity arose again to work our way to the proper lane on the proper side of the road, so we stuck our nose over the median hoping to sneak in this time. Some frustrated traffic officers approached in the distance. They were carrying sticks that measured about five feet long and might have been a bamboo material. I wondered what they were used for. My question was answered when the officers began slapping the hoods of cars that were blocking traffic! I just imagined the lawsuits that would ensue should the LAPD slap cars with sticks. Mr Tayal seemed concerned and frantically inched forward as the slapping officers approached. I slunk low in the backseat as the inevitable slapping drew closer. Miraculously, the officer shouted at Mr Tayal, giving the hood a gentle tap, as Mr Tayal was forced to turn around, backtracking for a while until we found a spot to merge.

We arrived at our destination, grabbed our jostled bags, and Mr Tayal walked us to the main office to check in. Sophie and I had discussed how to pay our fearless driver, since the cost was $70 and we only had $20s. We agreed that Mr Tayal deserved a $10 tip for ensuring our safe arrival. We each handed him two $20 bills. By the time we looked up from stashing our wallets, Mr Tayal had vanished.

We were shown to our rooms by the lovely and helpful Amit and Ankit. Exhausted, but eager for the start of the course, we ate dinner and retired to our respective rooms for the evening.

A Celebration at 19,340 Feet

The topic Pink Pangea called for was "celebrating your birthday in a foreign country." Since my birthday is in June, I've frequently celebrated abroad, but one celebration tops them all. The madness of climbing Mt Kilimanjaro for my 35th birthday. I'm in India this year for my 40th, so I promise a story just as entertaining.

Click here to read the harrowing story.

Spontaneous Travel vs Planned Travel

My second Pink Pangea Feature Writer story focuses on spontaneous travel versus planned travel.  As I was exploring what I thought was a dichotomy, I realized that the two types of travel are more intertwined than I knew.  The best types of trips offer a little of both, just enough planning to arrive and recover from jetlag safely, yet enough allowance to alter your plans if an interesting opportunity arises.  You can ease into a higher level of discomfort as your experience with travel grows.

Click here to read the full story.  Enjoy and please comment if you'd like.  I love hearing other travellers' stories!

Smart Cook Thai Cookery School in Chiang Mai, Thailand.  My Pad Thai was delicious!

Papaya salad.  I have yet to replicate this recipe, but I do evaluate every Thai restaurant visited in California, with no close comparisons.

My Travel Evolution

My first Pink Pangea Feature Writer story examines the stages through which my travel has transported me.  From childhood travel to college travel to friend travel to tour travel and finally, to solo travel.  Please take some time to examine the current stage of your travel evolution.  If you are not currently travelling, what stage most strongly appeals to you?  Obviously, some stages cannot be relived, but I'm certain friend travel, tour travel, and solo travel will feature prominently for the rest of my life.

Read the story by clicking here.  Never stop exploring!

Tour Travel:  Starting Day 3 of Mt. Kilimanjaro climb with Zara Tours.  Leaving Shira Camp at 12,600 feet.

A Double Dose of Pink Pangea

If you've read my blog for the past year, you know that I love writing for Pink Pangea.  Soon after I returned from Australia, I began contributing stories to their community of women travellers.  Rachel, one of the co-founders, emailed me to ask if I would like to contribute to a series of travel tips they were compiling for their readers.  Of course!  I couldn't decide between Airbnb and Meetup, so I included both of them in a piece designed to focus on meeting new people while travelling.  My story quickly inched beyond the 1000 word limit, so I divided it into two pieces, with Rachel's permission.  Disclosure on both pieces:  I couldn't remember my acquaintances' names, and was too lazy to rifle through the journals that are currently stored in the garage, so I assigned monikers that approximated their actual names.  Plus, I never know how my travel acquaintances feel about being featured in published stories.  It was probably for the best.  Click on the links below to access the stories.  Lots more coming soon!


How to Make the Most of Airbnb as a Solo Traveller
Photos featured in the story:

The Eastern Beaches Coastal Walk was one of my favorite activities when I stayed in Clovelly.  I could walk south down to Coogee, or I could make the trek north to Bondi.  Sometimes, I would stroll along and stop at every bench I saw, only to meditate on the sounds of the Pacific Ocean, amazed that it is part of the same ocean nearest my home in California.

You can almost hear the water splashing on the rocks in this photo.  This cliff is closer to Bondi, as the trail ascends and descends with stairways.  Sometimes, I would spot people clambering over the lower rocks, but I'd never try it.

My room in my Airbnb accommodation in Clovelly.  I'm always attracted to rooms that feature bookshelves in the photos.  I read Joseph Conrad's Heart of Darkness and Isabel Allende's The House of the Spirits during my stay.

How to Make the Most of Meetup as a Solo Traveller
Photos featured in the story:

A relaxing view at the Manly Jazz Festival in Manly, Australia.  Take the ferry from Circular Quay in Sydney for a scenic ride through the Harbour.  Along with the Jazz Festival, I enjoyed a flight at Four Pines Brewing Company.  I even returned near the end of my trip because the beer was so tasty.

Drinking wine in a public park...an incredible revelation in Australia!  I'm also holding a bag of Doritos, a welcome and frequent reminder of home during my trip.

Publications Update

I just read an old post that promised I'd update my publications on the blog as soon as humanly possible after publication, and I've obviously broken that promise.  Thanks to those of you who've checked every day since last May!  As I've mentioned before, writing experiences spurts, and I'm having one of those at the present moment.  Having just submitted a story I took way too long to write, I'll blame it on the cluttered psyche.  Alas, here's the update (click on the subheadings to access the stories):

Dispelling the Patong Beach Myth
I discovered Go See Write while perusing travel pages on Facebook, the same way I've discovered other sites.  While you're checking out my contribution about the Phuket island party town in Thailand, check out their entire website.  It's comprehensive and attracts a lovely community of travellers.  I've appreciated the positive and supportive comments from the community.

One of my first and favorite Patong Beach shots, encapsulating the spirit there.  Anne Castagnaro, 2013.

My Great Barrier Reef Diving Attempt
One of my favorite stories of all time is my blog post about diving the Great Barrier Reef in Cairns, Australia.  I hadn't contributed to Pink Pangea for a while, so I emailed Jaclyn to ask if they needed a GBR story.  I had to truncate it quite a bit from the original version to meet their maximum word limit, but concision is always good.  I'm happy with the result.

Attempting something new is better than never trying, even if that attempt involves restricted airways.  Anne Castagnaro, 2013.

How I Blew My Travel Budget, With No Regrets
I was afraid this piece would appear elitist, bragging about spending so much money on travel while others are struggling to survive.  In retrospect, if I hadn't taken that trip, I would have been a broken, horrible mess.  I used the means I had to build my confidence and propagate opportunities and advice for others to do the same.  Of course, it's always wonderful to write for Pink Pangea!

Right hand drive on the left side of the road....that's how they drive in Australia.  Yes, I knew that, and it was easier than I thought it would be.  Anne Castagnaro, 2013.