A Culture Shock to End All Others

"How am I supposed to survive for six weeks without air conditioning?"

"I can't leave my door open because the monkeys will take my stuff!"

"Um, that motorbike just splattered cow shit all over our legs!"

"Will diarrhea become my new normal?"

Welcome to India. 

I entered my room at Rishikesh Yog Peeth ashram, engaged the lock, and had a good cry as I collapsed on my bed. I messaged Melanie, my yoga teacher at Open Door back home, who assured me that she felt the same way upon her arrival and that it would soon pass. It didn't help that the temperature was hovering around 105-110F when I arrived. India was suffering a deadly heatwave, and I wondered if, all factors compounded, I would meet my demise during my visit.

1. No air conditioning

Central AC is largely an American phenomenon. I'm reminded of this luxury when I travel. I didn't know how I would manage six weeks without it. Three weeks in, my ceiling fan is doing a fine job, and it's relatively bearable. When the power cuts, the generator gives it a nice surge.

2. Frequent power outages

Indians are some of the most intelligent people I've ever met. I don't understand why this problem can't be solved. I suppose it's out of their control. The power cuts every day, at least five and sometimes ten times a day. Amit, one of the intensely dedicated staff members, drops what he's doing and cheerfully kicks on the generator. I started to keep a tally when I first arrived, but it became more time consuming than my studies. I've accepted it as a fact of Indian life.

3. Temperamental hot water

During the heatwave, I didn't mind a cold shower. Even at 5:30 am, before asana class, it felt refreshing after writhing around in sweat all night. Some students showered multiple times a day, merely to cool off. I got into the habit of showering twice a day. It's especially repulsive to sink into your bed at night after wading through cow dung, so the nightly shower became a refreshing necessity.

4. Cow dung in the streets

Cows are sacred in India. In Rishikesh, meat is illegal. That said, they roam the streets, eating the food scraps and mingling with the residents. I'm a vegetarian, actually almost vegan, but I cannot imagine eating one of these beautiful creatures after coming into such close contact with them. The bulls can be aggressive at times, but that's rare and he's usually pacified quickly.

5. Monkeys!

Only a few days into my stay, I was reading with my door open. I thought the resident cat had entered my room, but it was a monkey that looked to be about 20 lbs! She was looking for food and she found it: my precious Trader Joe's granola bars that I was saving for a special occasion, mostly an occasion which didn't require a spoon to eat them. I'll tell the detailed story in a future blog post.

The school was forthcoming with these five items, listing on their website to prepare to face them. They also insinuated if you didn't think you could embrace this lifestyle, the course isn't for you. I tried to prepare myself, but experience is the best teacher.

Now in my third week of the program, I can't imagine passing up on the opportunity to earn my yoga certification in India at Rishikesh Yog Peeth. The teachers are world class, the staff is delightful and helpful, and the food is delicious and plentiful. As with any travel destination, flexibility and a sense of humor are essential. Spoiled entitlement doesn't fly here. Once I pulled myself together and realized how fortunate I am for this opportunity, which didn't take long, I began to savor and internalize every moment of this journey.